Episode #7: Cendrillon

Tuesday, November 5, 2019

Against the backdrop of martial law in the Philippines, activists Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan open a trailblazing Filipino restaurant in New York City — long before Filipino food is #trending.

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Long Distance TV: Cendrillon Fish Sinigang

Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan of Filipino restaurants Purple Yam Brooklyn, Purple Yam Malate, and Cendrillon share their unique recipe for fish sinigang and explain why it is the quintessential Filipino dish.

Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan in their home in Brooklyn circa 1980s. Courtesy of Amy Besa.

Chef Romy Dorotan prepares fish sinigang with Long Distance host/producer Paola Mardo at Purple Yam Brooklyn. Photo by Patrick Epino.

Long Distance host/producer Paola Mardo speaks with Amy Besa, author of “Memories of Philippine Kitchens” and owner of Purple Yam Brooklyn and Purple Yam Malate. Photo by Patrick Epino.

Amy Besa at the opening night party at Cendrillon in SoHo New York in August 1995. Courtesy of Amy Besa.

Chef Romy Dorotan peeling pomelo after a meal at Cendrillon in SoHo, New York. Courtesy Purple Yam Brooklyn Facebook page.

Chef Romy Dorotan on opening night at Cendrillon in SoHo, New York in August 1995. Courtesy of Amy Besa.

Long Distance host/producer Paola Mardo talks to Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan about their book “Memories of Philippine Kitchens” in Purple Yam Brooklyn. Photo by Patrick Epino.

Cendrillon fish sinigang. Photo by Patrick Epino.

Cendrillon Fish Sinigang Recipe

The recipe below is taken from the book “Memories of Philippine Kitchens” by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan:

Filipino writer and food critic Doreen Fernandez considered the sinigang the quintessential Filipino dish because it makes good use of the sour fruits that grow in the Philippines. I grew up eating pork and beef sinigang and was never too particular about the fish version until Romy came up with the idea of making a dry crust and pan-frying the fish fillets.

A Note from Paola: Amy and Romy often cook with what is available or in season. If tamarind pods are not available where you live, Romy says that any sour fruit will do such as lemon or kalamansi. I grew up with sinigang soured by seasoning packets and you can totally use those too! In the Long Distance TV video above, Romy prepares his fish sinigang broth with leeks, tomatoes, radish, and rhubarb. The crust for the fish fillets is made of a miso-mustard paste, polenta, diced rhubarb, and leeks.

SERVES 4

Two 2-pound red snappers, cleaned and cut into 4 fillets (skin-on), head, tail, and bones reserved

Fish Stock:
Head, tails, and bones from snapper
1 large carrot, cut into large pieces
3 leeks, green parts only, cut into large pieces
10 fresh tamarind pods or 2 ounces packaged tamarind pulp (not concentrate) soaked in 1 cup water
5 medium-ripe tomatoes, chopped
4 radishes, quartered
1 leek, white part only, sliced
2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 fresh green or red chile, sliced
1/4 cup fish sauce, or to taste
Kalamansi lime or lemon juice to taste, if needed

Fish:
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 radishes, finely chopped
2 leeks, white parts only, finely chopped
2 teaspoons fine cornmeal
4 tablespoons canola oil
2 bunches baby bok choy, cut into large pieces

For the stock, in a large pot over high heat, combine the fish heads, tails, and bones with the carrot, leek greens, tamarind pods or packaged pulp, medium-ripe tomatoes, and 10 cups water (9 cups if you’re using the packaged tamarind pulp). Bring to a boil over high heat then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Skim the foam until the stock becomes clear. Strain. You can prepare the stock a day ahead, refrigerate, and reheat before serving.
Before serving, add the radishes, leeks, seeded ripe tomatoes, and chile to the stock and simmer for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Add the fish sauce. Taste and add lime juice and more fish sauce if needed.
For the fish, preheat the oven to 400° F. Rub 1/2 tablespoon mustard over the flesh side of each fillet to evenly coat. Combine the chopped leeks and radishes and press into the mustard in a thin layer. Sprinkle about 1/2 teaspoon cornmeal over each fillet. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in each of two large ovenproof skillets over medium-high heat. Pan-fry the fillets, skin side up, for about 3 minutes, or until lightly browned. Flip the fillets and place in the oven for about 5 minutes, or until the fillets are cooked through and the crust is lightly browned and crisp.
Divide the bok choy among 4 deep, wide serving bowls. Add about 1 1/2 cups steaming-hot stock (reserving any extra for later use), and place a fish fillet on top. Serve with additional fish sauce and lime juice on the side.

Show Notes

CREDITS:
This episode was written, edited, mixed, and hosted by Paola Mardo. Long Distance is produced by Paola Mardo and Patrick Epino. Long Distance TV is directed, edited, and shot by Patrick Epino, and hosted, written, and produced by Paola Mardo. This season of Long Distance is produced with support from PRX and the Google Podcasts creator program. Music in this episode is by Blue Dot Sessions and Epidemic Sound. Theme Song is by C. Light and the Prisms.

MUSIC:
Comin’ Along — C. Light and the Prisms
Borough — Blue Dot Sessions
Stale Case — Blue Dot Sessions
Dangerous Forests — Epidemic Sound
Begrudge — Blue Dot Sessions
Rate Sheet — Blue Dot Sessions
Roundpine — Blue Dot Sessions

ART AND PHOTOS:
Cover art by Celina Calma
Title design by Paola Mardo
Archival photos courtesy of Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan
Other photos by Patrick Epino and Paola Mardo

SPECIAL THANKS:
Renee Gross
Meena Ramamurthy
Patricio Abinales
Christine Bacareza Balance
Catherine Ceniza Choy
Aileen Suzara
Vicente Rafael
Bryan Ugaddan
Nastasha Alli
Regina Espino
Alfonso Mardo
Patricia Pangilinan-Mardo
Patrice Mardo

RESEARCH NOTES:

Research and interviews were conducted by Paola Mardo. Below is a list of some research materials and resources used in the production of this episode.

Books:
Days of Disquiet, Nights of Rage by Jose F. Lacaba

Dictatorship and Revolution: Roots of People’s Power by Aurora Javate-De Dios, Petronilo Bn. Daroy, Lorna Kalaw-Tirol

Memories of Philippine Kitchens by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan

A Time to Rise: Collective Memoirs of the Union of Democratic Filipinos (KDP) edited by Rene Ciria Cruz, Cindy Domingo, and Bruce Occena with a foreword by Augusto F. Espiritu

Films:
Imelda by Ramona Diaz

Ulam by Alexandra Cuerdo

Articles, Podcasts, Videos, and More:

Why Sinigang? from Sarap: Essays on Philippine Food by Doreen G. Fernandez

Video of Romy Dorotan on the Martha Stewart Show: How to Make Filipino Lumpia

Video of Romy Dorotan on the Martha Stewart Show: Chef Romy Dorotan’s Filipino Adobo Part 1

Video of Romy Dorotan on the Martha Stewart Show: Chef Romy Dorotan’s Filipino Adobo Part 2

Video of Amy Besa on Eater’s Halo-Halo: Why Chicken Adobo is the Most “Authentic” Filipino Dish

New York Magazine: A Perfect Day for Banana Leaves: Cendrillon on Mercer Street is Beyond Manila in Spirit by Peter Kaminsky, September 18, 1995

New York Magazine: Best Pan-Asian Restaurant in New York City, April 1997

The New York Times: Restaurant Review by Ruth Reichl, July 26, 1996

The New York Times: Dance; The Lyon Ball Brings Innovative Choregraphy to Classic Works by Jennifer Dunning, January, 18, 1987